Hello, this is Lislab.
Today, I want to talk about 'Selvedge and Raw Denim,' which represents a major pillar of my lifestyle. To some, they may just be stiff and uncomfortable pants, but to me, they are precious 'Heritages' where the passage of time and the movements of my life are vividly recorded.
Here are the six distinct raw denims that currently support my wardrobe.
This post is organized from the roomiest to the slimmest fit.
LVC > Fullcount > Momotaro Jeans > Naked & Famous > PBJ > A.P.C.
01. LVC (Levi's Vintage Clothing) 55501
"The Textbook of Reproduction Denim: The Voluminous 1950s Silhouette"
Fit: Wide Straight – Authentic vintage silhouette with a high rise and roomy leg.
Condition: Lightly worn / 1 Soak & 1 Wash.
Features: Deep indigo color with the original stiff starch (crispiness) still present.
This is a reproduction of the iconic 501 from 1955, the golden era of Levi's. Its charm lies in the rugged texture and boxy silhouette. While it's ready to be broken in, I am currently pausing the aging process to enjoy the original deep indigo shade.
It is the "foundation" of my wardrobe whenever I need a classic, boxy aesthetic.
02. Fullcount 1101
"The Ultimate Comfort: Zimbabwe Cotton meets Classic Reproduction"
Fit: Regular Straight – The most standard and balanced silhouette.
Condition: 3 years of wear / Frequent washes (once a month).
Features: Natural mid-blue fading with a soft, vintage texture.
Thanks to the signature softness of Zimbabwe cotton, these are comfortable enough to be called my 'Life-time Jeans.' Due to the relaxed fit, the fades aren't razor-sharp, but the bright, clear mid-blue color that emerges after repeated washes is truly beautiful.
They are my go-to pair for any casual outfit.
< Fullcount 1101 >
03. Momotaro Jeans 0605
"Heavy Indigo with a Twist: The Charm of Pink Stitches"
Fit: Natural Tapered – Roomy in the thighs with a clean, tapered leg.
Condition: 3 years of wear / Frequent washes (once a month).
Features: Transitioning into a clear, vibrant mid-blue.
Momotaro's signature 'Deep Indigo' has transformed into a bright blue after three years. The contrast between the rugged slubby texture and the pink inseam stitch (along with the signature battle stripes/pocket detail) is a fantastic aesthetic point. Despite three years of wear, the fabric remains incredibly sturdy.
This is my most trusted 'battle-ready' pair.
04. Naked & Famous 'Dirty Fade' Weird Guy
"Experimental Vintage Mood: The Brown Undertone"
Fit: Slim Tapered – A modern slim fit (slimmer than Momotaro, roomier than PBJ).
Condition: Less than 6 months of wear / 3-4 washes.
Features: Early stages of fading.
This was my entry into the world of raw denim. It features a unique concept where the fades reveal a brownish undertone rather than pure white. I haven't worn them as much lately since acquiring the PBJ and Momotaro, but subtle hues are starting to appear around the knees.
I plan to focus on breaking these in soon to see the full potential of the 'Dirty Fade.'
< Naked & Famous 'Drity Fade' Weird Guy >
05. PBJ (Pure Blue Japan) XX-011
"A Masterpiece of 3 Years: A Record of Intense Daily Life"
Fit: Slim Tapered – A sophisticated, sharp silhouette.
Condition: 3 years of wear (Most worn) / Frequent washes (once a month).
Features: Mid-to-light blue stage; the most intense fading in my collection.
PBJ is unrivaled when it comes to "Slubby" texture. Due to the Left-hand Twill fabric, it features a unique 'rainy' vertical fading, and the signature leaf embroidery on the back pocket is my favorite detail. This pair fits my body perfectly and holds the most vivid records of my daily habits.
It serves as the ultimate benchmark for my future denim projects.
06. A.P.C. Petit New Standard
"From Armor to Second Skin: The Tension and Excitement of Week 2"
Fit: Slim Tapered – A low-rise, skinny silhouette (slimmer than PBJ).
Condition: 2 weeks of wear / Unwashed.
Features: Initial honeycombs and creases starting to form.
My latest acquisition. They are still as stiff as armor and not yet comfortable, but the way they wrap around the body feels great. I believe the first few weeks, when the creases begin to form according to my movements, is the most exciting peak of raw denim.
I look forward to sharing real-time updates on how these evolve.
< A.P.C. Petit New Standard >
Closing: What story does your denim tell?
I have introduced the six raw denims that anchor my wardrobe.
Compared to denim masters who produce artistically intense fades, my records might still seem modest. However, I believe in the weight of time and the value of memories built with denim. Knowing that value, I intend to keep layering my own story onto these stiff canvases.
Etching memories into denim and watching the stiff fabric soften along the lines of my body is a joy like no other. I will be back with in-depth individual reviews for each of these pairs soon.
In the next post, I will return with an archive of Washed Denim and Black Denim.
Thank you for reading this long journey.
Sincerely, Lislab
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