[Review] PBJ (Pure Blue Japan) XX-011 3-Years Selvedge Denim: Shaped by Time

 

Hello, this is Lislab.

While many brands are hailed as the pride of Japanese denim, PBJ(Pure Blue Japan) stands in a league of its own, solely due to its unparalleled fabric texture.

Renowned for its signature "slubby" and rugged feel, PBJ is famous for maintaining this unique texture while employing distinctive construction methods that set it apart from standard denim.

Today, I’m introducing the PBJ XX-011, a model that utilizes Left-hand Twill(LHT) to offer both unique fading characteristics and a surprisingly comfortable fit. Let’s dive into the detailed data of how PBJ’s "blue obsession" has evolved after spending over three years with me.





Lislab Spec

Height/Weight: 171cm/62kg

Body Type: Slender

Size: Waist 30

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PBJ 011 Size: 32 (Size up 2)

01. Product Details

"Slim Tapered Fit & Unique Fabric Texture"

• Fit: Slim Tapered — A low rise with a sharp taper from the knee down for a modern, sleek silhouette
• Condition: 3 Years of wear / Multi-washed (Once a month)
• Features: Mid-to-light wash — Currently the most heavily faded denim in my archive

• 13.5oz Left-hand Twill (LHT), woven in the opposite direction of standard denim
• PBJ’s signature high-slub texture with deep indigo tones
• Signature 'Indigo Leaf' embroidery on the back pocket, blue selvedge ID, black buttons, and black-plated copper rivets

My reason for adding PBJ to my archive was simple: I was captivated by the back pocket’s leaf embroidery and the incredible fading potential of its irregular, slubby surface. The signature leaf represents PBJ’s identity, while the blue selvedge ID, matching the deep indigo hue, offers a subtle yet strong presence when cuffed.



Describing the initial feel of the PBJ XX-011 as just "rugged" isn't enough. However, the Left-hand Twill fabric becomes remarkably soft over time. Within the rough texture, it creates a unique "Vertical Fading" effect that looks like falling rain. The black hardware—buttons and rivets—and the white stamp on the black inner pocket lining give it a powerful, modern edge hidden within a slim silhouette.





02. Sizing

"A Bold Choice for a Slim Silhouette"

<PBJ XX-011 Size Chart(One-Wash)>

* This data is a recompiled average by Lislab, based on PBJ official guides and measurement data from global premium denim retailers. Please note that raw denim may have slight individual variations; use these figures as a reference point for your size selection.



The PBJ XX-011 is essentially an Unsanforized denim, but since most are sold as One-Wash, additional shrinkage is minimal. However, PBJ runs notoriously small and slim, which is a crucial factor when choosing your size.

I initially purchased a size 31 (1 size up), but it was far too tight, so I exchanged it for a size 32 (2 sizes up). While it feels tight at first, PBJ’s fabric has a natural stretch that molds to your body. Now, the waist even feels a bit roomy. Since the 011 is a very slim fit, I recommend sizing up by at least 3 if you have more athletic thighs.

< Size Selection Guide >

Curious about how to find your perfect fir for the 'ultimate pair'?

03. 3-Year Aging Data

"Three Years of Wear: The Peak of Vertical Fading"

Here is the measurement data for the size 32 after 3+ years of wear:

• Waist: 40cm > 30.5cm (0.5cm increase)

• Front Rise: 25.5cm > 25.5cm (No change)

Even considering that these jeans have been through countless washes and heavy tumble drying for over three years, there has been no significant change in the final dimensions.

This doesn't mean the fabric never stretched or shrank. Rather, it indicates that after a long cycle of shrinking during washes and stretching during wear, the fabric has finally "settled down" and reached a point of stability.

Currently, as I have lost some weight, the waist sits a bit lower on my hips. However, it hangs naturally on the pelvic line, allowing for a relaxed and effortless silhouette even without a belt.





Visually, the slubby texture is striking and looks like it might feel harsh against the skin. However, thanks to the Left-hand Twill, the actual hand-feel is surprisingly soft. The true beauty of this model lies in how the indigo's depth shifts depending on the angle of the light.



Looking back at the time when I lacked knowledge and treated my denim quite roughly, I find this naturally faded look more valuable than forced, high-contrast whiskers or honeycombs.

It is a one-of-a-kind piece—a precious record of my own journey. These jeans, now faded to a light wash, will serve as a great milestone for my future denim projects.



Closing: The Ultimate Partner for the Long Haul

The PBJ 011 is denim that is "proven by time."

The natural color and vertical fading—something you can't achieve overnight even with a raw pair—is like a badge of honor for those who have spent years with PBJ. It looks rugged to anyone else, but it's actually a delicate, soft garment that has been tamed to fit its user perfectly.

For those looking for a modern slim-tapered silhouette without compromising on fabric character, I can confidently say the PBJ 011 is the ultimate choice.

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Thank you for reading this long journey.

Sincerely, Lislab

<Recommended Reads>

Introduction to other Selvedge & Raw Denim Pairs Filled with Personal Heritage: Link

Ultimate Denim Glossary - Essential Terms for Beginners: Link