APC Petit New Standard Raw Denim First Wash & Soaking Guide: Shrinkage and Stretching Data

Hello, this is Lislab.

Breaking in a pair of stiff, untreated raw denim and molding it perfectly to your body is always an exciting journey.

Today, I’m sharing the first wash and machine soaking data for 'A.P.C. Petit New Standard'—the epitome of entry-level selvedge raw denim, long loved for its minimal, modern design and tapered fit. This marks the first major turning point in the denim fading journey I’ve been archiving on my blog.

This point marks exactly 54 wears over roughly 4 months, using nothing but my own body shape and movement to break in what started as armor-stiff raw denim. Now that the creases have completely settled, I will share exactly why I chose this moment for the first wash, along with precise shrinkage data and meaningful aging progress.



01. Why I Timed the First Wash at 54 Wears

"A Strategic Choice for the Perfect Balance"





Originally, I planned to wear these raw jeans harshly until the crotch was on the verge of blowing out, aiming for the high-contrast, razor-sharp fades favored by hardcore denim heads.

However, reaching the 54-wear mark, I faced three clear limitations and decided it was time to make a tactical compromise.

First, The Unbelievable Stretching of APC Fabric

I was already surprised by the significant stretching during my 1-month review. By month 4, the fabric had stretched well beyond my waist size. Since I’ve also lost some weight, the jeans were constantly sliding down my hips, making physical shrinkage through a first wash absolutely necessary.



< Check out the APC Petit New Standard 1-Month Detailed Review >



Second, Aiming for a Clean, Vintage Warehouse 2nd Hand Vibe

A.P.C. denim is famous for its fast fading because the indigo dye layer is relatively thin compared to traditional replica brands. Continuing to wear them without a wash would cause the threads in heavily creased areas to fray drastically, creating harsh, lightning-like high-contrast fades.

Instead of artificial contrast, I wanted a natural, vintage look inspired by the 'Warehouse 2nd Hand' line—where the core creases remain distinct but the overall indigo color fades into a clean, bright blue. Seeing the white core threads just starting to peek through, I knew now was the golden hour for the first wash.

< Check out the Warehouse 1105 Wash & Aging Post >



Third, Hydration to Prevent a Crotch Blowout

The Petit New Standard is famous for having the slimmest silhouette in the A.P.C. lineup. Friction constantly builds up around the crotch area. Keeping the fabric dry and stiff for too long makes the cotton brittle, leading to sudden rips. A proper wash introduces moisture, relaxing and tightening the cotton fibers to make the fabric resilient again.

< Check out the Denim Wash Golden Time Guide for Denim Heads >

02. Pre-Wash Measurements & Aging Progress

"Tracking the Endless Stretch of APC Denim"





Before throwing them into the machine, here is the measurement data showing how much the fabric stretched over 4 months compared to when they were brand new.

• Waist (Flat): 41.5cm (New) ➔ 40.0cm (1-Month) ➔ 41.5cm (~4 Months) [Total +2cm stretch]

• Front Rise: 23.5cm (New) ➔ 25.5cm (1-Month) ➔ 26.0cm (~4 Months) [Total +2.5cm stretch]

As you can see, the waist and front rise expanded by over 2cm (more than a full tag size) in a relatively short period. While manageable up to the first month, by month four, the fabric's elasticity had maxed out, causing the jeans to sag constantly.

Looking at the main high-wear areas, the whiskers on the lap, the honeycombs behind the knees, and the stacks at the hem have faded down to the white core threads.

Washing them at this exact stage prevents the creased areas from contrasting too harshly with the uncreased indigo, allowing for a smooth, natural vintage fade.





03. Machine Soaking & Washing Method

"The Lislab Denim Washing Protocol"





Unlike a traditional hot-water soak aimed purely at maximum shrinkage, I opted for a washing machine soak to simultaneously strip away 4 months of accumulated grime while gently shrinking the fabric.

First, button up the fly completely and turn the jeans inside out. Flipping them exposes the crease lines as dark blue grids on the inside, showing exactly where the indigo has been heavily rubbed off from the core.









Next, do not fold the denim tightly with sharp edges. Instead, fold it loosely and naturally, then place it in the machine alone. Folding raw denim too tightly can cause the machine's spin cycle to create permanent, unwanted vertical indigo streaks along the fold lines. (Using a mesh laundry bag is ideal, but going without one is fine for a solo wash.)









• Cycle: Delicates / Wool Mode

• Rinses: 2-3 Times

• Spin Speed: Delicates (Lowest Setting)

• Water Temp: Cold Water

• Detergent: A minimal amount of neutral wool detergent

To avoid sudden over-shrinkage and protect the set creases from washing out, I kept the water temperature strictly cold. Since detergent was added, I set it to rinse three times thoroughly, keeping the spin cycle at the absolute weakest setting.

Skipping the spin cycle entirely leaves the denim waterlogged, causing gravity to stretch out the inseam as it dries. Conversely, a heavy spin cycle causes intense friction against the drum, resulting in chaotic crease marks. The 'lowest spin' setting is highly recommended.





Once the wash is complete, give the jeans a few firm shakes to flatten out minor wrinkles. If you want to prevent the inseam from shrinking, hang-drying them upside down by the hem is best.

If you prefer a tight, uniform shrinkage all around, lay them completely flat on a drying rack. I wanted a balanced, uniform shrink, so I laid them flat.





04. Post-Wash Measurement Comparison

"The Ideal Shrinkage of Sanforized Raw Denim"





Once completely dry, here is the final breakdown of the pre-wash versus post-wash dimensions.

• Waist (Flat): 41.5cm (Pre-wash) ➔ 40.0cm (Post-wash) [-1.5cm shrink]

• Front Rise: 26.0cm (Pre-wash) ➔ 25.5cm (Post-wash) [-0.5cm shrink]

• Inseam/Length: 107.0cm (Pre-wash) ➔ 105.0cm (Post-wash) [-2.0cm shrink]

Unlike Levi’s unsanforized shrink-to-fit rigid denim, which loses 3 to 4 cm drastically, A.P.C. uses sanforized denim (pre-shrunk treatment), delivering a highly controlled and ideal shrinkage rate.

The sagging waist snapped back near its original state to roughly 40cm, providing a perfectly snug fit once more. The total length shrank by 2cm, creating a beautiful break at the ankles without requiring any hemming. (While I originally aimed for a total length around 102–103cm, this natural air-dry shrinkage is highly satisfactory.)











The most striking post-wash transformation is undeniably the depth of color. The dark, somewhat dusty purplish-indigo shade typical of unwashed A.P.C. jeans cleared up as the heavy starch washed away, revealing a vibrant, clear indigo hue. The hard-earned creases remained sharp and locked in place, making me even more excited for future fades.



Closing: Reflections on 4 Months of Breaking In

Reflecting on the past 4 months of heavy wear and the subsequent first wash/soaking process, I am thoroughly impressed by how honest and resilient this A.P.C. fabric is.

When first purchased, the slim fit combined with the heavily starched raw fabric made them feel like restrictive armor. Yet, they stretched beautifully to accommodate my actual body shape and movements, only to shrink right back reliably post-wash with excellent recovery.

If you have a slimmer lower body, the leg-lengthening effect and sharp taper of the Petit New Standard are unmatched at this price point. Because the indigo dye layer is thinner than traditional heritage replica denims, it leads the pack in terms of fading speed, letting you experience the joy of raw denim aging in a short timeframe. It’s clear why denim heads worldwide recommend this pair as the definitive gateway to raw denim.

With 54 wears down, the foundation for the clean, bright vintage aesthetic inspired by the Warehouse 2nd Hand style is perfectly set. Moving forward, I plan to tighten the wash intervals to every 20 to 30 wears, gradually brightening the overall fabric while permanently embedding the creases.

I’ll continue to document how these A.P.C. jeans evolve naturally alongside the Lislab blog over time.

Thank you for reading this long journey.

Sincerely, Lislab

<Recommended Reads>

APC Petit New Standard: Detailed Review & Style

Raw Denim Guide Part 1: Fabric Types and Care Fundamentals

Raw Denim Guide Part 2: The Definitive Soaking & Washing Manual

How to Measure Jeans Accurately to Avoid Sizing Mistakes

The Ultimate Glossary of Denim Terms for Beginners