[Guide] Denim Guide Part 1: How to Choose Your Perfect Raw and Selvedge Denim and the Mechanics of Fading

Hello, this is Lislab.

For those tracking down their first pair of raw or selvedge denim—or even those who just brought one home—you might be staring at them wondering, "Alright, how on earth do I actually wear and break these in?"

If I could travel back in time to when I first started my denim journey, I’d want to hand myself a definitive checklist to avoid the countless trials and errors I went through.

This guide contains a wealth of information, so I will be breaking it down into a 3-part series:

• Part 1: Finding Your Fit, Choosing the Right Ounces (oz), and How They Impact Fading (Today's Topic)

• Part 2: The Golden Window for Washing Your Denim (Denim Guide Part 2 Link)

• Part 3: Practical Denim Washing Methods and Care Guide

Today, we kick off with Volume 1, taking a calculated look at how to choose a pair of denim you won't regret.



01. What Matters More Than Brand or Model

"The Right Fit for Your Body"



When you start researching entry-level denim, you'll be bombarded with claims like "This brand is the ultimate heritage" or "That model is a timeless wardrobe staple."

But let's establish the absolute truth right from the start: The name on the leather patch doesn't matter if the silhouette doesn't complement your body shape.

For instance, someone with a slim build like myself will look swallowed alive in an excessively wide-leg cut, no matter how iconic the model is. Ultimately, that awkwardness means they'll rarely leave the closet, eventually turning into wardrobe relics or getting listed on the secondhand market.





Conversely, if you have an athletic build with more developed thighs, a restrictive slim or sharp tapered fit might end up exaggerating the wrong proportions. If you size up aggressively just to clear your thighs, you'll end up with a gaping waist that ruins the intended silhouette.

In the end, the right choice isn't the "hyped pair" everyone else is talking about—it's the pair where your body feels comfortable and your reflection in the mirror looks completely natural.



02. Sizing and Selecting Your Fit for Fading

"Your Anatomy Dictates the Creases"



The high-contrast, personalized fading that denim enthusiasts dream of is a chronological record of your daily movements, friction, and maintenance habits wearing away the indigo layers. And this fading behavior is locked directly to your choice of fit.



• For Slim Builds: If you wear jeans that are too loose, the excess fabric creates a large gap between the cotton and your skin. This minimizes friction, meaning the creases won't stay set and will constantly flatten out. You can wear them hard for months, but instead of sharp honeycomb creases, you'll likely just end up with flat, overall color loss. If you want high-contrast fades, lean into a well-proportioned slim or tapered cut that hugs your frame correctly.

• For Athletic/Thicker Builds: You actually have a natural advantage when it comes to fading denim. The higher density of contact between the fabric and your legs creates frequent, sharp friction, making it easier to lock in deep, defined creases compared to slimmer individuals. However, if you go too tight, you run a high risk of a crotch blowout or stretching the fabric so hard that the silhouette loses its structural integrity. A balanced cut with a reasonable amount of breathing room is non-negotiable.





Additionally, dye depths and fading speeds vary wildly across manufacturers. Brands like Momotaro or RRL utilize proprietary, deep indigo dyeing methods that make them notoriously slow, stubborn faders.

If you lack the patience and want to experience high-contrast fades early on, look toward brands famous for giving up their indigo relatively quickly, such as A.P.C. or Pure Blue Japan (PBJ).



03. Choosing the Weight

"The Density and Gravity of Ounces (oz)"



The "oz" (ounces) metric you see on every spec sheet simply indicates the weight and weave density of the fabric per square yard. Think of it like crumpling different weights of paper: thin paper creases into thousands of tiny, fine wrinkles, while heavy cardstock resists before bending into massive, deep folds.





• Lightweight Denim (12oz and below): Typically found in lightweight chambray shirts or heavily processed light-wash jeans, this weight is quite rare for raw or rigid selvedge denim. While they are highly breathable and comfortable for summer wear, the thinner weave means the creases lack structure, resulting in shallow, faint fades. (Note: There are exceptional heritage brands like Warehouse that manage to coax incredible fading textures out of lighter 12oz fabric, making it crucial to understand a brand's specific textile engineering.)

• Heavyweight Denim (16oz and above): Rigid and unyielding, these fabrics act almost like armor, providing an immaculate, structured silhouette and deep, dramatic creases. However, for a beginner, the initial break-in period can be genuinely punishing on your skin and joints.

For your first entry point, I highly recommend a mid-weight fabric between 13.5oz and 15oz. This range offers the ultimate structural balance—yielding excellent wearability, straightforward maintenance, and highly rewarding crease definition across all four seasons.



Closing: The Process of Choosing a Lifelong Partner

Stepping into raw denim isn't just about buying another item of clothing; it's about choosing a rugged partner that will document your movements for years to come. Ignore passing trends and external hype—analyze your true body measurements first, and decide honestly how much weight you're willing to break in.

I hope this breakdown serves as a functional compass on your map toward finding your "grail" denim. In Part 2, we will dive straight into the most fiercely debated topic in the community: The impact of the first wash timing and wash cycles on fading.

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Thank you for reading this long journey.

Sincerely, Lislab

<Recommended Reads>

Denim Guide Part 2: Link

The Art of Raw Denim: Link

Denim Sizing Guide: Link

Raw Denim Glossary: Link