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[Review] PBJ (Pure Blue Japan) XX-011 3-Years Selvedge Denim: Shaped by Time

  Hello, this is  Lislab . While many brands are hailed as the pride of Japanese denim, PBJ(Pure Blue Japan) stands in a league of its own, solely due to its unparalleled fabric texture. Renowned for its signature "slubby" and rugged feel, PBJ is famous for maintaining this unique texture while employing distinctive construction methods that set it apart from standard denim. Today, I’m introducing the PBJ XX-011 , a model that utilizes Left-hand Twill(LHT) to offer both unique fading characteristics and a surprisingly comfortable fit. Let’s dive into the detailed data of how PBJ’s "blue obsession" has evolved after spending over three years with me.   Lislab Spec Height/Weight: 171cm/62kg Body Type: Slender Size: Waist 30 - PBJ 011 Size: 32 (Size up 2)
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[Guide] Denim Sizing Guide: How to Find Your Perfect Fit



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Hello, this is Lislab.

When you first fall in love with raw denim, the most challenging part is undoubtedly 'Choosing the Right Size.' The unfortunate truth is that a 'Size 30' isn't the same across different brands or processing methods. Even within the same brand, the fit can vary drastically depending on the product line.

Today, I’m sharing my 'Fail-Proof Denim Sizing Guide,' built on years of data and actual trial and error from my personal collection.



01. Why 'In-Store Fitting' is Always Plan A


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The best way to buy denim is to visit a physical store. Speaking with an expert about the fabric’s characteristics—such as its stretch or shrinkage—and trying it on yourself is the only way to guarantee a perfect fit. It’s also the best chance to learn professional care tips.



02. The Gold Standard: Measuring Your Favorite Pair


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If you must buy online, comparing 'Actual Measurements' is crucial. The biggest mistake is relying solely on your waist circumference. Instead, take your best-fitting pair of jeans, lay them flat, and measure these three key areas:

  • Waist (Flat): Button the jeans and measure straight across the waistband.

  • Front Rise: Measure from the crotch seam up to the top of the front waistband. (This determines where the jeans sit on your waist.)

  • Thigh (Flat): Measure straight across the leg, about 1-2cm below the crotch seam.



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  • Slim Build: Focusing on waist and rise is usually sufficient.

  • Athletic/Muscular Build: If you have developed thighs, you must prioritize the thigh measurement. Even if the waist fits, the jeans will be unwearable if the thighs are too tight.




03. The 'Size Trap' of Processing Methods


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Most clothing shrinks in the wash. While standard brands pre-process clothes to prevent this, denim comes in various processing stages. If you don't know these terms, your jeans might turn into "children's clothes" after the first wash.

Key Terminology:

  • Rigid: Raw, untreated denim in its natural state.

  • One-Wash: Pre-washed at the factory to settle the initial shrinkage.

  • Sanforized: Mechanically processed to minimize shrinkage.

  • Unsanforized: Untreated denim (high shrinkage).


Sizing Guide by Processing Type:


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04. Warehouse Magic: Why I Wear Size 33 and 32 as a True 30


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In my archive, the Warehouse 1101 Second Hand model is tagged as Size 33, but the actual waist measures close to 30.

The reason is simple: It's not just the model difference. The 1101 is a 'Light Used Wash,' meaning it has undergone heavy industrial washing and maximum shrinkage, hence the need for a size 33. Conversely, the 'Medium Used Wash' 1105 is less shrunk, so a Size 32 fits me perfectly. This proves you must consider 'Wash Intensity' when choosing your size.



05. Fabric Characteristics: Why does A.P.C. recommend 'Sizing Down'?


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Some fabrics are known for 'Stretching' more than shrinking. A.P.C. is the prime example.

I purchased the A.P.C. Petit New Standard in my True Size (30). At first, it was painfully tight, and I worried about shrinkage. However, after only 3 weeks, the waist has stretched to be roomier than my other size 31, 32, and 33 jeans. This dramatic stretch is why the "tight-fit start" is a must for A.P.C.

Note: Heavyweight denim (14oz+) stretches very little, so choose a comfortable size from the start.



06. Final Checklist for Sizing Success


  1. Visit a store and get expert advice whenever possible.

  2. Compare Actual Measurements and consider your Body Type.

  3. Always check the Processing Method (Rigid/Sanforized/One-Wash).

  4. Research the specific fabric’s Stretch and Shrinkage rates.




Closing: The Journey of Finding Your Life Denim


Ultimately, denim is a process of 'molding' the fabric to your body. Even if it’s a bit uncomfortable at first, it will eventually stretch and shrink to fit you like a second skin. That is the true romance of raw denim. However, if the starting point is too far off, that romance quickly turns into a nightmare.

I hope this data helps you find your perfect pair. In my next post, I’ll dive deeper into the 3-week review and aging process of the A.P.C. Petit New Standard.

Thank you for reading this long journey.

Sincerely, Lislab


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